Kalamkari Textiles: Narrating Stories on Fabric

A 3000 year old tradtion of hand painted textiles. (Photo courtesy- Exotic India Art)

The word Kalamkari comes from two Persian words—kalam (pen) and kari (craft)—literally meaning “drawing with a pen.” This ancient Indian art form is a storytelling tradition on fabric, combining intricate hand-painting or block-printing with natural dyes.

Kalamkari is primarily practiced in Andhra Pradesh and Telangana, with two distinct styles: Srikalahasti (freehand painting using a pen) and Machilipatnam (block-printed designs). Both forms narrate stories from Hindu epics like the Ramayana and Mahabharata, as well as mythological themes and folklore.

The process is labor-intensive, involving up to 23 steps—from treating cotton with cow dung and milk for dye absorption, to repeated washing, drying, and natural dyeing with indigo, madder, or pomegranate rind. According to the Handloom Export Promotion Council (HEPC), Kalamkari textiles contribute significantly to India’s handicraft exports, which crossed USD 4.5 billion in 2022–23.

One striking example is the Kalamkari temple cloths, traditionally used as backdrops in South Indian shrines, where every panel told a visual story for devotees. Today, Kalamkari extends beyond religious art, finding expression in sarees, dupattas, wall hangings, and even contemporary fashion. Designers like Gaurang Shah have revived Kalamkari sarees on global runways, blending heritage with modern aesthetics.

Despite modernization, Kalamkari remains eco-friendly, relying only on natural dyes and handmade techniques. Supporting it not only sustains a storytelling tradition but also empowers artisan families—over 3,000 craftspeople still practice Kalamkari across Andhra Pradesh and Telangana.

Kalamkari is not just textile—it’s a living canvas where history, myth, and artistry converge.